{"id":63566,"date":"2022-08-01T20:48:36","date_gmt":"2022-08-02T00:48:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.themainemag.com\/?p=63566"},"modified":"2022-08-02T10:47:05","modified_gmt":"2022-08-02T14:47:05","slug":"mount-desert-island-in-48-hours-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.themainemag.com\/mount-desert-island-in-48-hours-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Mount Desert Island in 48 Hours"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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The writer\u2019s daughter plays in the lapping waves at Sand Beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Friday<\/strong>
Luxury digs and dining<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

You may be headed to Maine\u2019s largest island to explore its diverse ecology while conquering the craggy, sometimes heart-pounding trails of Acadia National Park, but that doesn\u2019t mean you shouldn\u2019t also indulge in a bit of Maine luxury. Splurge for a stay at The Claremont Hotel<\/a><\/strong>, a circa-1884 hotel tucked into a quiet corner of Somes Sound, the east coast\u2019s only fjord. This superbly stylish Rusticator-era rambler recently underwent a full renovation led by hotelier Tim Harrington, the partner and creative director of Kennebunkport Resort Collection. Expect the kind of treatment one gets at the grand dame hotels of Paris and Gstaad\u2014champagne placed in hand upon check-in, en-suite fireplaces and private decks, and multiple nooks with Sister Parish wall coverings, sumptuous armchairs dressed in William Morris and Pierre Frey fabrics, and an endless supply of heavy art books. Once you\u2019ve unpacked, head to Harry\u2019s Bar<\/a><\/strong>, the hotel\u2019s moody, nautical cocktail bar, and enjoy a predinner gimlet on the main house porch with a view of the moored and bobbing sailboats in the harbor and the mountains beyond.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For dinner, go no further than Little Fern<\/a><\/strong>, just a few steps down the hall. Make a reservation upon check-in, as you\u2019re sure to be competing with MDI\u2019s classy set for a table. Order the rich seafood pappardelle paired with a French pinot, and be sure to save room for sunset s\u2019mores at the firepit down by the water\u2019s edge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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One of Acadia\u2019s many John D. Rockefeller\u2013gifted Carriage Roads.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Fried clams, pickled beans, whitefish pate, and a kid\u2019s burger at Abel\u2019s Lobster.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The Bubbles, one of Acadia National Park\u2019s most visited sites, reflected in the pristine water of Jordan Pond.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Saturday<\/strong>
Acadia appetites<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Get going early to be sure to hit the most popular spots in Acadia National Park<\/strong><\/a>. Buttercup Bakery<\/a><\/strong>, the Claremont\u2019s on-site coffee and sweet shop, opens at 7 a.m. and provides complimentary coffee for guests. It\u2019s also a great place to grab a to-go pastry or breakfast bar. Planning to sea kayak, hike, and rock climb in one day\u2014yes, you can do all three on MDI\u2014and need more fuel? Head back to Little Fern, where you\u2019ll find frittatas assembled in delicate layers of potato, egg, and cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche, and chocolate chip pancakes served with a side of warm chocolate sauce and Maine maple syrup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stick your preprinted park pass on your dashboard and head to the first national park east of the Mississippi. Sand Beach<\/a><\/strong>, a rare sandy strand tucked into a cove between granite-studded shores, is a great place to start. Located at the beginning of the 27-mile Park Loop Road<\/a><\/strong>, from here you can drive down the road\u2019s eastern, coastal section\u2014slowly: you\u2019ll want to take in the scenery\u2014to get to Jordan Pond<\/a><\/strong>. Reservations can be made in person starting at 10:30 a.m., and service begins at 11. This historic stop has been famous for its popovers and tea since the late 1800s, and it provides an unbeatable view of the The Bubbles<\/a><\/strong>. Feel like getting to work? The 1.5-mile hike beginning at the Bubbles Divide parking lot is a quick way to access the iconic North Bubble, South Bubble, and Bubble Rock. More into the idea of a run? The trail circling Jordan Pond\u2019s pristine waters is just a little over three miles and makes for a scenic, mostly flat sprint.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A chic and cozy sitting room in the main house at the Claremont.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The firepit at the Claremont, where it\u2019s often \u201cs\u2019mores night.\u201d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The writer\u2019s daughter enjoys a cone at Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream before hitting the road back to Portland.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Jordan Pond House, where the tradition of popovers and tea has carried on for over 100 years.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There are countless trails to check out each time you visit Acadia, but don\u2019t miss the park\u2019s famous Carriage Roads<\/a><\/strong>. The 45 miles of rustic, gravel-lined byways were a gift from John D. Rockefeller Jr., who, as a dedicated horseman, wanted to be able to travel motor-free through the mountains and valleys of the park. To cover as much ground as possible, rent mountain bikes from Acadia Bike <\/a><\/strong>or book a horse-drawn carriage from Carriages of Acadia<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Take a break from your sporting adventures and set off for some culinary ones. Abel\u2019s Lobster<\/a> <\/strong>on Route 3 is located on a tranquil wooded lot on the edge of Somes Sound and was a finalist in three categories of this month\u2019s Food and Drink Reader\u2019s Choice Awards (page 76), including best outdoor dining, best view, and best lobster roll\u2014though the fried clams are also hard to beat. If there\u2019s a bit of a chill beneath the fir trees, head inside, where wall-to-wall windows still offer prime views.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Started with oysters and clams and want to finish with some fowl? Peter Trout\u2019s Tavern + Inn <\/a><\/strong>is a Southwest Harbor staple known for their spicy fried chicken sandwiches served with house-made slaw and thick slabs of salty fried potatoes. Order the Caesar salad, which comes with generous chunks of bacon, along with one of the many local Maine beers either on draft or in a can, and challenge your company to a bar game or puzzle while you wait for your meal (the skillet fried chicken takes 35 minutes, but it\u2019s worth it).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sunday<\/strong>
Bar Harbor and boats<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you have a bucket list, wake up before dawn and drive (with your reservation) up Cadillac Mountain<\/a><\/strong>, the highest point in Acadia, to watch the sunrise. To time it right, keep in mind that it takes approximately 30 minutes to drive up Cadillac Summit Road, park, and walk to a viewing spot. The experience gives you bragging rights and is an awe-inspiring start to the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next, it\u2019s off to nearby Bar Harbor. Set along Frenchman Bay, the charming town is known as the gateway to Acadia, which means it is one of the most visited villages in Maine. It\u2019s also one of the prettiest. Grab a coffee from The Independent Cafe <\/a><\/strong>on Main Street, and pop in to one of the many local shops lining your route to the ocean, where you\u2019ll find the entrance to Shore Path<\/a> <\/strong>at the Town Pier next to Agamont Park<\/a><\/strong>. Constructed in the 1880s, the walking path traces the eastern side of the island and offers prime views of the water\u2014and into the inner courts of the many high-end hotels there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A guide on the Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company\u2019s seal and lobster tour holds up two different kinds of crabs native to Maine: the rock crab and the Jonah crab.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Caesar salad with bacon and fried chicken sandwiches at Southwest Harbor\u2019s Peter Trout\u2019s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Agamont Park, situated just above the water in Bar Harbor, is where you\u2019ll find the entrance to Shore Path.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To see Acadia from the sea, book a tour on one of the boats at Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company<\/a><\/strong>. For a shorter, more kid-friendly ride, go for the seal and lobster tour, where you can learn more about Maine lobstering industry while the crew hauls up traps\u2014you\u2019ll see some crabs, too. The boat will make a stop next to Eastern Egg Rock<\/strong><\/a>, where sleepy seals lounge and hobble across the stones beneath Egg Rock Lighthouse. If you\u2019ve come in June or July, you may be lucky enough to spot some puffin families. Owned by the state and managed by the Puffin Project, Eastern Egg Rock is the world\u2019s first reestablished seabird colony and is one of the most-visited puffin islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back on land and before heading home, don\u2019t miss one of the premium scoops from Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream<\/a><\/strong>, which you can enjoy beside the Bar Harbor town gazebo. If it\u2019s a sunny afternoon in the summertime, you may just find the Big Moose Contra Dance Band<\/a> <\/strong>jamming with their fiddles, guitars, and banjos beneath the rafters, a sweet sendoff to a lively weekend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Batson River Fish Camp at The Claremont is perfect for a midday cocktail or a battered taco.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\t\t
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